
THERE used to be only one place to get Japanese food in Duluth: Wednesdays at the Fitgers Hotel restaurant. And when we tried their sushi, we wanted to cry, not from joy but from self-pity. The makis and sushis and sashimis brought to us would have made a Japanese sushi chef commit hara-kiri. They were sloppy, looked crude and had too many of those green, plastic decorative wrappers all over the plate. Still, we couldn't complain (too loudly). We were lucky to even find sushi in Duluth.

Now we have Zen House, a little Japanese restaurant attached to a SPUR gas station way out on Haines Road near the mall area. We couldn't believe our luck. Not only did they have sushi, sashimi, makis and donburi dishes, they also had green tea, Sapporo beverages and soba! Best of all, the owner is Japanese. So none of those bland Americanized Asian dishes.

For our first visit, we ordered makis and sushis. We also had some miso soup, green tea and the Fresh raw tuna and avocado salad (yummy but the serving is tiny). They were O.K. The rice was kind of dry and the fish was cut in a weird, wide kind of way. Still, it was better than the Fitger's sushi. I know, I know. Why even complain? But after having had excellent sushi in Manila and the best sushi in Tokyo, it's hard not to nitpick.

Make no mistake, we will be back. The summer menu will end soon and the winter menu features suki-yaki, another favorite of mine. I also want to try their donburi dishes, as well as their sobas and tempuras.
Zen House Japanese restaurant is located at Haines Road corner Maple Grove. Tel. no. (218) 722-9365. Check out their menu here.